Antar Agni,Divyam Mehta brings variety of fashion nuances to LFW

Ujjawal’s construction and designing techniques have been his signature that has revolutionised the concept of men’s and women’s wear. His pattern making has always been innovative but stark and striking.

His new line amalgamated the timeless quality of eastern classic silhouettes with international trends, thus bringing a certain amount of disobedience to his collection.

Setting aside traditional cuts and the production of men’s and women’s wear, Ujjawal brought in an intelligent merger of the rough textiles and sheen along with his characteristic flowing, straight or crooked, light with heavy structures.

The surprise element of the show was Ujjawal’s new colour palette, which stayed loyal to black and charcoal grey but brought in pops of lavender, dark burgundy, air force blue or cadet grey.

Men’s wear had the characteristic asymmetric silhouettes for waist coats and kurtas.  Short coats had interesting small lapels, but Sherwanis and a variety of baggy trousers and kurtas were often teamed with lapel coats. Knit Sherwanis, collarless shirts and shawl collar jackets made great fashion statements.

Women’s wear had a gentle, feminine, touch with stark shapes. Asymmetrical, double-breasted coat and dress were simple with machine embroidery; while jumpsuits with side pockets looked comfortable and relaxed. The double-breasted dress with a soft backless coat, grey midi with cowl cover, two-toned kurta, maxi dress with asymmetric cover and rouched back drape proved it was a balanced collection.

It seems this will be a rare occasion when the world won’t object to fashion followers being ‘Disobedient’ since they will make a strong style statement with Ujjawal Dubey’s Antar Agni label.

When the inspirations for the collection are the draping styles of the Buddhist monks with the multiple layers and interesting waist belts; then the look had to be serene, spiritual and sophisticated.

Divyam Mehta’s ‘The Black Monk’ collection at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2017 had subtle glamour and drapes that offered a feminine as well as masculine look.

The designer dreamt the collection predominantly in black and cement grey. The effortless styling was interpreted with layered drapes, skirts, and relaxed wide leg monk trousers, an assortment of wraps and robes that exuded easy fluidity. Divyam also took a hint of inspiration from the artworks of French artist Jean Degottex to give a more comprehensive angle to his theme and designs.

The delicate Shibori patterns and interesting block prints gave an innovative texturing to the handloom wool and matka silks. But it was the imaginative Kantha work from Bengal and the thread embroidery that finally completed the ethereal look.

The men’s wear started with a fluid kurta and loose trousers, black/ white coat, cropped/crushed shirt and dhoti pants.  The low buttoned double-breasted jacket with draped baggy pants was an interesting addition. The cowled waistcoat worn with matching pants and jacket was an unusual version; while the Sherwani/shawl and bundi/kurta combos with asymmetric lapels and the black/white poncho with low-crotch pleated pant further confirmed the theme of the show.

Women’s wear was as spiritual in nature with draped front-tied skirt and coat, asymmetric layered dress, an interestingly draped sari, toga-style midi, black sack dress and skirt, kimono cover and draped dress.

When it comes to effortless fashion, which has a skilful touch, then worshippers of style will love ‘The Black Monk’ collection by Divyam Mehta.

The look for both designers was kept clean with an added touch of flair, which can be attributed to the misplaced eyebrows created by Lakmé Makeup Expert, Donald Simrock.